Patio Furniture El Paso

West Texas hotels near Marfa and Big Bend offer historic refuges and non ...

Having sheltered dusty travelers for centuries, West Texans know that lodging is more than just a convenience: Distances between towns and temperatures both run to extremes.

The historic hotels, some a century old, are grand refuges from the heat, with extensive outdoor spaces for relaxing; large, quiet public spaces filled with art and books; and solid, atmospheric restaurants. But several upstarts - some established in just the last year, others proving successful after five years or more in their remote locations - offer less-traditional options.

Here's an update:

Marfa area

El Cosmico, 802 S. Highland Ave., Marfa; 432-729-1950; www.elcosmico.com. You almost certainly have never stayed in a place like this assemblage of yurts, safari tents, a tepee and meticulously restored vintage mobile homes on 18 acres at the edge of town. Be aware that tubs and showers are outdoors, the better to see the stars, but not so hot for the luxury- minded. You'll also get to haul your luggage out to your trailer in a little wagon.

Cibolo Creek Ranch, 1-866-496-9460; www.cibolocreek ranch.com. So exclusive and private that the guests aren't even issued room keys, Cibolo Creek in the foothills of the Chisos Mountains got a new manager in January, Richard Gill. Hunting is a big draw, along with fishing and rides in the ranch's fleet of Hummers. The rooms are decorated with Spanish colonial and Mexican touches such as heavy armoires and Saltillo tile floors. Doubles start at $325 per night plus $75 per day per person for meals.

The Thunderbird Hotel, 601 W. San Antonio, Marfa; 877.729.1984; thunderbirdmarfa.com. Once a tired 1950s relic, is now all spare, rugged elegance. It reflects the stark beauty of its surroundings, with fences of ocotillo, lattice of salvaged oil-field pipe, pool, fire pit and 24 minimalist guest rooms with platform beds and animal-skin rugs. If you're too technophobe for the rooms' high-speed Internet or cable TV with DVD players, the hotel has loaner vintage typewriters and Polaroid cameras to help you channel your inner artist and capture your surroundings. Because as fabulous as Marfa has recently become, the desert scenery that's been there since time immemorial is the real West Texas scene.

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